DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L – Our solution for the blooming effect

27. May 2024

Following the award-winning launch of our SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S last year (read more about SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S here), we would now like to present our “Formulator’s jewel for worry-free processes”. We have already introduced you to DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L in our last article. In this newsletter, we will go into more detail about how easy it is to work with the latest IOI Oleo innovation.

In addition to many formulations, we proudly presented our new award-winning launch at this year’s in-cosmetics Global in Paris: DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L.

This solid lipid is a real game changer for all water-free formulations based on natural, polymorphic triglycerides such as waxes – from lip balms and foundation sticks to lipsticks. All of these formulations can lead to the undesirable blooming effect, which manifests itself as small white spots or raised dots on the surface and means that the affected product must be disposed of. The tricky part here is that the effect is difficult to control and can therefore occur during the development phase, after production or, in the worst case, at the consumer.

As the trend is increasingly moving towards solid formulations, the prevention of this effect is therefore becoming more and more relevant.

Left in each case: Stick without DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L. Right: Stick with DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L

With our new raw material DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L, this phenomenon can now be effectively controlled. By adding just 5% to 20% of our ingredient to the formulation, the blooming effect can be significantly reduced, which not only means a substantial reduction in the reject rate due to faulty batches, but also an optimised production process, consistently high quality and ultimately a protected brand reputation for our customers.

Find out how easy it is to use our “Formulator’s jewel” in our Dos & Don’ts:

Dos (How to use DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L):

  • Hot Process, melting point 58 – 64°C

  • Can be heated several times up to 85 – 90°C (DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L always retains the same structure due to the absence of polymorphism)

  • Combination with natural waxes, butter etc.

  • Creation of a melting cascade by combining with waxes with different melting points

  • “Add on top” for formulations with little wax (DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L does not noticeably change the viscosity)

  • Wax replacement for formulations with a high wax content (e.g. 30% wax → 15% wax + 15% DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L). Leads to easier gliding on the skin and more pay-off

  • Combination with castor oil, for increased viscosity / hardness

  • Combination with starch (e.g. corn starch), for a more powdery skin feel

Don’ts (What you should avoid):

  • Use in formulations without (natural) waxes (waxes create a 3D network in which oil droplets are bound and thus contribute to stability, even if they are also responsible for the blooming effect due to their polymorphism)
  • Cold process
  • Use in transparent formulations (e.g. transparent sun sticks)

Recommended application concentration

Sticks and Solid Cosmetics: 5 – 20%

Balms: 2 – 10%

Be inspired by the three new trend recipes with DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L:

This WOW formulation is based on 2% DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L and 4% wax. The combination is sufficient to formulate a stable balm and at the same time control recrystallisation. Our ingredient makes the balm particularly gentle. The additionally used SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S creates magic. This raw material is a water-soluble multifunctional. It initially provides an exfoliating effect and transforms into an emulsion on contact with water. In contrast to conventional exfoliating particles, SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S therefore offers an environmentally friendly alternative and also a “soft touch”.

Formulation here

Inspired by the Pantone colour of the year “Peach Fuzz”, this highlighter formulation combines 10% DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L with 15% natural polymorph wax. The wax concentration is required for stability and hardness, but is also the reason for the undesirable blooming effect. The use of DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L “on top” helps to control the (re-)crystallisation process and also ensures a more uniform, lighter base colour. The reduced variation in colour shades makes it easier for formulators and producers to deliver a consistent colour to end customers. The deluxe touch emollient MIGLYOL® 829 ECO and the vegan multifunctional SOFTISAN® 649 make the formulation comfortable to wear and also protect the skin barrier by lowering the TEWL.

Formulation here

With 25% DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L, this formulation provides a protective film on the skin (ask us for the results of our external studies on TEWL and Deep Skin Moisturisation). The high starch content gives the Protecting Balm Whip an unusual powdery-rich texture that is quickly absorbed. MIGLYOL® Coco 810 intensifies the dry after-feel and makes this balm a true experience for the senses. The combination of ingredients creates a rich moisturising balm that offers protection and comfort in one.

Formulation here

Order your sample here and convince yourself of our jewel for carefree formulating.

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Insa Waller

Insa Waller has a background in cosmetic chemistry and marketing. Before joining IOI, she gained experience in B2C product development (skin care) and production. After a position as sales manager (german-speaking countries), Insa moved to the CARE Studio, IOI Oleo's in-house showroom and application lab in Hamburg, as an application engineer. Since graduating with a degree in marketing, she also works as technical marketing. Insa has a passion for cosmetics, fashion and trends and enjoys going for a run.