DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L – Formulator´s jewel for worry-free processes

4. April 2024

Sticks are the must-have in the cosmetics industry and are very much en vogue thanks to their often water-free formulations. With a projected market volume that promises to almost double by 2032(1), sticks are in the spotlight for their efficient and easy application, longevity and minimal packaging. But it’s not just the compactness and convenience that makes this product form so attractive; it often combines multiple functions in one formulation and offers clean application without spillage – ideal for the modern, on-the-go lifestyle – if it weren’t for the blooming effect.

Blooming” is a term used to describe the effect when the predominantly solid ingredients of a mixture change their crystallinity on a microscopic level, which, on a macroscopic level, can be observed as white spots. The ingredients that cause sticks to bloom – especially in lipsticks – are mostly waxes and triglycerides from natural fats and oils. This is due to their “polymorphic behaviour”.

Polymorphism describes the phenomenon that a substance or element with the same chemical composition can crystallize into more than one crystal structure.

Crystalline behaviour of triglycerides

Crystalline behaviour of DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L

In addition, the production of lipsticks requires constant neutralization of the colour, which occurs due to the use of natural waxes. Besides these technical challenges, the aspects of sustainability and brand image can also be affected. In response, the R&D and Personal Care team at IOI Oleo GmbH have developed an innovative ingredient specifically for sticks. This new ingredient is a game changer that effectively limits the blooming effect or, if used pure, eliminates it completely. In this way, we relieve producers of their worries about defective batches and the resulting negative impact on their image.

Curtain up: We are proud to present our DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L, which is based on polyglycerine and stearic acid, at the upcoming in-cosmetics global.

How can you control the blooming effect?

Polymorphic behaviour cannot be prevented, but it can be controlled by regulating heating and cooling, reducing the concentration of solid triglycerides and using polymorphic-free excipients.

This is where our latest innovative product comes into play: DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L.

This innovative ingredient is completely polymorphic-free, so it does not change its crystalline structure and therefore shows no blooming effect. Thanks to the use of DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L, it is possible to significantly reduce the blooming effect independently of heating and cooling production steps. The use of just 5% to 15% DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L delivers the desired results and reduces the effort required to reprocess defective batches. Consequently, this has a positive effect on sustainability and brand image (of your product).

Thanks to our production expertise, we can deliver continuous batch-to-batch quality, which pays off particularly in Color Care formulations. The continuous white colour of DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L reduces the work involved in neutralizing the colour nuances of natural waxes.

Further benefits for formulators:

  • Improves gliding effect and pay-off

  • Moisturizes after the first application
  • Strengthens the skin barrier (confirmed by tewametry)
  • Is compatible with oils, natural waxes, preservatives and all types of pigments
  • Melts at approx. 60°C and can be heated up to 85 – 90°C several times without any problems
  • Avoids defective production batches and improves sustainability
  • Reduces the effort required to neutralize colour nuances when using natural waxes
  • 100% vegan
  • NOI 1.0 (ISO 16128)
  • COSMOS, NaTrue compliant

With DYNASAN® CrystalCONTROL L, we relieve producers of their worries about the blooming effect. We help our customers to achieve consistent quality and support them in reaching their sustainability goals.

Take your chance and be one of the first to discover this jewel. Visit our Formulation Bar at booth 1G20 at in-cosmetics in Paris from April 16 to 18. Here we will show you practical examples of how the product can be used and how it can make your production process more efficient.

Get in touch with us and book an appointment with our experts on site.

Quelle: https://www.ukpackchina.com/beauty-stick-boom/

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Aurélien Tahon

Aurelien Tahon is Head of Application Development and Technical Product Management Personal Care at IOI Oleo GmbH. He is a graduate of the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, where he received a degree in Chemical Engineering . Aurelien worked in various positions (Hair Care formulator, R&D Raw Material Scouting and Global Strategic Procurement) within the Beiersdorf group for 15 years before joining IOI Oleo GmbH. He is passionate about music and loves to spend time with his 3 daughters.