SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR – Hello universal Naturalness

2. February 2021

UPDATE from 28.07.2022

What was once the desire for natural ingredients is now almost a must and part of the UNIVERSAL BEAUTY trend. Our SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR goes perfectly with vegan, natural and clean beauty concepts. A new study on skin care now also proves that this all-rounder is not only suitable for hair care products (as the name suggests).


We commissioned a certified, external laboratory to carry out in vivo skin moisture studies using a corneometer (Courage + Khazaka). For this purpose, a minimalist basic formulation containing 2% SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR was tested on volunteers over a period of two hours.


2% SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR shows a strong and quick moisturizing effect. Even after two hours, the effect is at a similarly high level. SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR provides perfect support for other moisturizing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin. The good effect of SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR can be easily explained: It consists of ingredients that are also found in the natural moisturizing factor and in the skin: Sodium PCA and glyceryl oleate.

Emotional result:

Can the measured results also be felt – by experts and, even more importantly, by consumers?

Yes! The panel agreed with more than 80% each of the following statements:

  • I feel my skin is hydrated: 90% agree
  • My skin feels softer: 90% agree
  • My skin feels cared for: 80% agree

These results were also confirmed by the dermatologist, who, after applying the emulsion containing SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR, described the skin as softer and better hydrated.

Get your formulas ready for trends like clean beauty with the natural boost of our universal SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR. Contact us and find out everything about our ingredient and the studies.

UNIVERSAL BEAUTY – a mantra in the cosmetics industry that expresses the wish for universal, vegan, natural and clean beauty-compliant products. SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is an absolute multifunctional power product that fits this trend perfectly.

The world is becoming a bit more vegan every day, as various statistics prove impressively. Around one billion people around the world are vegan and vegetarian. In Europe, Germany, Austria, Italy and England are ahead at the forefront with around 10 %. This development is continuing and conquers gaining ground in ODER becoming more and more popular in other areas of daily life, such as per-sonal care. The desire for vegan and natural ingredients was taken up by the “Clean Beauty” trend and generally requires products that do not harm people or nature. In a nutshell: Transparent infor-mation on ingedrients, because consumers want to know what’s in the product!

SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR seems to be made for this trend and is a real all-rounder! Our product is 100% natural and therefore has a Natural Origin Index of 1.0 (according to ISO 16128). SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is based on PCA and glyceryl oleate, which are gathered from multi-plants. In addition, it is EcoCert / COSMOS and NaTrue certified, which makes it a suitable raw mate-rial for natural cosmetics.

The name of SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR suggests its use in hair care products. And that’s right. Here two facets of the product unfold. It acts as an anchor for hydrophobic substances (e.g. oils) and at the same time serves as a moisturizer. With its pH value below 5.5, the product is positively charged. Due to the negative charge on the hair, SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR adheres to the hair. Thanks to its structure, it can also anchor hydrophobic substances to the hair for better combability. This makes this product one of the few raw materials on the market that is 100 % natural and has the same properties as synthetic polyquats.

But our all-rounder can do even more. The benefits are revealed when it is used in skin care products. Our top layer of skin, the stratum corneum, forms a barrier that protects against dehydration and keeps impurities and germs away. The purpose of products for skin care is therefore to support, maintain and improve the natural protective barrier. A healthy skin barrier needs moisture, which can be maintained through humectants such as glycerine or hyaluronic acid, or through the skin’s own substances such as the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). One component of the NMF is pyrrolidion carboxylic acid (PCA), which is also a component of SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR.

In order to prove the positive effect of SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR, IOI Oleo GmbH carried out corneometer tests over a certain period of time. The results conclude that skin hydration was improved.

All information, processing instructions and exemplary formulations can be found in our brochure on the product (click here for the brochure). Two of our most popular formulations with SOFTI-SAN® conditionHAIR are “Shower Explosion” and “Smooth Operator Beard Oil“, which you can find under the following links:

With our SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR you have a 100 % natural product that also provides you with a whole range of technical benefits:

  • Suitable for emulsions, surfactant-free and water-free products

  • SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR is a molecule – this results in a synergistic effect such as the “anchor effect” of hydrophobic substances
  • Thanks to its honey-like consistency, the product can be processed both hot and cold, for efficient and energy-saving production
  • Compared to “Polyquats”, SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR smells neutral and is easy to use thanks to its liquid form
  • Multifunctional product for many areas of application (Hair Care, Skin Care, Color Care, Sun Care, Baby Care)


  • PCA as part of the NMF has a positive influence of the moisture level on the skin; SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR can enhance skin hydration
  • Can also be used to positively influence the sensory properties of wet wipes
  • Perfect fit for hair & body washes


  • Naturally moisturizing and conditioning
  • Conditioning effect of molecule due to its positive, cationic charge (pH below 5.5) and its high affinity & substantivity to hair
  • For shampoo, leave-on/rinse-off conditioners, masks, scalp & beard care
  • Eases wet and dry combing


  • Natural film-former
  • Moisturizes delicate lips and skin while wearing lip stick or make up
  • Perfect fit for waterless cosmetics; usage of water-based humectants (e.g. glycerine) is limited

Make your products ready for trends such as clean beauty with the natural boost of our universal SOFTISAN® conditionHAIR. For detailed information and samples, please contact us – we look forward to hearing from you!

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Aurélien Tahon

Aurelien Tahon is Head of Application Development and Technical Product Management Personal Care at IOI Oleo GmbH. He is a graduate of the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, where he received a degree in Chemical Engineering . Aurelien worked in various positions (Hair Care formulator, R&D Raw Material Scouting and Global Strategic Procurement) within the Beiersdorf group for 15 years before joining IOI Oleo GmbH. He is passionate about music and loves to spend time with his 3 daughters.