SOFTISAN® 650 – Award-winning performance, light sensory properties & 100 % naturality

24. September 2025

With SOFTISAN® 650, IOI Oleo has set a milestone in performance for modern cosmetics

Film-formers are the unsung heroes in cosmetics.

They play a critical role enabling long wear, water resistance, and protective effects. Historically, synthetic polymers have been the primary choice for film formation. However, their petrochemical origin and undesirable sensory properties (tackiness or occlusivity) pose limitations.

As consumer demand shifts toward clean, natural-origin products without compromising efficacy, these drawbacks are increasingly scrutinized.

Presenting SOFTISAN® 650. This new generation film-former combines multifunctional performance with light sensory properties and sustainability in a unique way. Its in-vitro & in-vivo tested properties include:

  • Water-resistance
  • Even film-formation
  • 24h long-lasting-effect
  • Protection of the skin barrier
  • Hydration of the skin

Award Winner: Bronze for SOFTISAN® 650

The combination of strong performance, light sensory feel, and 100% natural origin does not go unnoticed.

SOFTISAN® 650 impressed the jury at both in-cosmetics Korea and in-cosmetics Latin America. The innovative film former was awarded the Bronze Award in the ‘Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards 2025’ in the category ‘Functional Ingredients’ at both events.

Kane Zhong, IOI Sales Manager East Asia, and Nicolas Munoz, Senior Sales Manager Americas, celebrate the awards won with our partners in Korea and Brazil (July/September 2025).

Strong film, light skin feel

Film-formers often change the sensory properties of a formulation and cause an oily and sticky skin feel. By contrast, SOFTISAN® 650 forms a non-perceivable film on the skin, despite its strong, measurable performance. O/W emulsions show almost the same sensory properties (high gliding, no stickiness and quick penetration) – even in high concentrations of up to 8 %. Thus, SOFTISAN® 650 ensures better performance without any loss of lightness. This is a unique feature and makes this film-former particularly interesting for concepts that depend on light sensory properties, for example formulations for the Asian market.

This multifunctional also offers a nice touch to color care formulas: In lipsticks, it improves both colour pay-off and gliding SOFTISAN® 650 really does form a film so light, … it feels natural.

Our first 100 % natural crosspolymer

SOFTISAN® 650 is the new generation film-former: completely natural, vegan and made from renewable raw materials. Thanks to the innovative, patent-pending technology, IOI Oleo developed an entirely new molecule: Polyglyceryl-3 Azelate/Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate Crosspolymer.

SOFTISAN® 650 consists of vegetable fatty acids (C8/C10/C18) that are cross-linked with natural azelaic acid. This structure (crosspolymer) makes the product particularly stable and significantly improves its film-forming properties.

Yes! Cross-linked polymers exist in nature too, e.g. collagen or elastin. In the cosmetic industry, crosspolymers are usually associated with synthetic ingredients (e. g., polyacrylates (film formers) or C10/30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer (gel builder). SOFTISAN® 650 shows there is another way and therefore uses no synthetic ingredients but 100 % natural azelaic acid for cross-linking.

The Personal Care Product Council’s (PCPC) INCI System is based solely on the chemical structure and not on the origin of the raw materials. Hence the name “crosspolymer” is also correct in the case of a 100% natural ingredient.

However, this also means that the INCI alone is no longer sufficient for judging the naturalness of an ingredient. It is up to the manufacturers, brands and platforms such as CodeCheck or ToxFox to communicate  that the INCI “crosspolymer” can also be natural.

Gentle to the skin

Additionally, SOFTISAN® 650 exhibits a mild, safe profile and is suitable for all skin types. The new molecule has undergone various safety tests, allowing the following claims:

  • hypoallergenic,

  • non-irritating,

  • non-comedogenic and

  • non-acnegenic.

These properties make it ideal for use in formulas requiring the highest tolerance (i.e., concepts for sensitive, acne-prone skin).

Order your sample of SOFTISAN® 650 and experience a film so light, … it feels natural. Click here for more information and contact us at personalcare@ioioleo.de.

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Insa Waller

Insa Waller has a background in cosmetic chemistry and marketing. Before joining IOI, she gained experience in B2C product development (skin care) and production. After a position as sales manager (german-speaking countries), Insa moved to the CARE Studio, IOI Oleo's in-house showroom and application lab in Hamburg, as an application engineer. Since graduating with a degree in marketing, she also works as technical marketing. Insa has a passion for cosmetics, fashion and trends and enjoys going for a run.